Selecting the Right Dress Size

A great fit will make all the difference. The subject of measuring, sizing and fitting children are the majority of inquiries we receive every day at our company. Fit and sizing applies to everyone – child or adult - so let's talk about it!

When selecting a size for a particular dress remember that every manufacturer has a different sizing standard so it makes no difference what size she wears in any other style, company or store.  You HAVE to take her measurements accurately to select a size properly.

Getting accurate measurements is where we run into a lot of trouble because it seems that everybody has a different idea of how to measure or has some sort of other idea about how to take measurements – and these can cause horrible problems.  Most people make it much more confusing and difficult than it really is.  Proper measuring will only take moments so relax - it's easy!

To take measurements, you need a good (but not necessarily expensive) tape measure. Make sure that it doesn’t stretch (like a really old one might) – and don’t ever attempt to use a string or some other thing and then put it up to a yard stick because that will never be accurate. For a reference chart with this sizing discussion, drop over to: Measuring and Size Selection.

Measure over the underwear she will wear with that garment – and ONLY that underwear.  Please don’t laugh! We’ve had irate people tell us that “she was only wearing a sweatshirt when I  took her measurements “. Result?  The dress fit nicely over the sweatshirt . . . .  Sounds too obvious?  Things like this happen all the time!  

Children's Shapes & Sizes

Children's shapes can vary considerably from "box" (straight up and down) to the very typical "egg" (larger tummy - very normal for children) or "tapered" (slimmer waistline and hips). Width measurements help you determine what size you need to go around all of these measurements.

It isn't necessary to take as many measurements on a child as it is a junior or adult. And, dresses take far fewer measurements than pants oufits.  Typically you will only need chest, waist and length measurements for children while hip and various bust measurements will be important when getting into Pre-Teen and older styles.

She should stand with both feet firmly on a flat surface wearing shoes the height that she will wear with the dress. This is important! Have her look straight ahead - looking up or down will change her shape and measurements. Just have her look comfortably forward with her arms dangling loosely down - not reaching up, forward or behind for the same reasons.

Check her posture. Does it look normal? Is this the way she typically stands or is she rigid like a soldier? You really don't want to measure a rigid soldier stance, because she won't be standing like that the entire time she is on stage. Of course you don't want to measure somebody who is standing like a lump either because that will simply throw everything off.

Now take your measuring tape and run it under the arms around the chest - all the way around. Pull it snugly but not uncomfortably tight. Make sure she is breathing normally and take your measurement.

Do the same thing around the waistline. Where is the waistline? We’re asked that all the time. It is usually level with the naval. Still uncertain (many are)? Have her bend forward - where's the crease? That is likely her waistline. Get a comfortably snug measurement.

Don’t try to get tricky by putting your thumb underneath the tape - a technique used by some seamstresses to add ease - because adding ease is something the manufacturer does for you. You'll get an ill-fitting dress if you add more to the measurements. Most measurement charts will tell that it is the child's measurement on the chart, not the measurement of the garment so the dress will come slightly larger in a proportionate way. (Check and know for sure before selecting a size.)

You need to select the size that will be big enough for every measurement.  For example, if the chest measurement says you need a 4 but the waistline says you need a 5, then you must order a 5, because the 4 will be too tight in the tummy. Remember - you can always have something taken in, but you likely cannot have it let out.

Don’t stress if she isn’t a perfect size – hardly anybody is!  And keep in mind, too that, this manufacturer’s size chart may not have a “perfect” size for her but the next manufacturer might.  

Now take her length measurement from the nape of the neck to the hemline in those shoes. Where is the nape of her neck? Put a necklace around her neck and measure down from the point where it hits her back bone. If a measurement is given for the length of the dress, you can assume this is from the nape of the neck to the hemline. Some do prefer to provide a length from the waistline down - again taken from the back.

Keep the following guidelines in mind for length:

• Tea length is roughly mid-calf
• Formal gown lengths can vary from ballet to waltz to formal to floor.  Formal length is approximately shoe-top length (considered to be much safer for children).  Floor length should clear the floor by about 1" as well.

Keep in mind that the finished dress’s  measurements will always vary slightly, so if the size chart says that a size 6 will be just barely long enough, you might want to go with a size 7 just in case it runs ½” shorter – or if she grows suddenly (which so often happens).  

What Affects Fit?

Many things will affect how the length will fall on her. Changing shoes/heels, of course.  Adding a petticoat underneath will shorten it; I’ve seen a petticoat make a gown appear to be 3-4” shorter because the extra fullness takes up the length.  Even her posture will affect the length --  it may fall longer in front or back, depending on how she stands.  This is definitely something you want altered so it hangs perfectly on her body.

Another thing that has come into major consideration these days is "Backpack Shoulders".

Is your child particularly tall or short? Short may not be a problem because it can always be shortened.

But lengthening is another matter - it can't be done.  If your child is especially long, lanky and tall (as so many pageant competitors are) you do have to compensate and make choices that will work for her:  

• Purchase a size or two up to get the proper length and then have it taken in locally to fit properly. A dress with a nice sash that ties is a huge help, because it is a terrific - and charming - way to assist with minor fitting adjustments that could avoid alterations. However, major differences will need to be addressed with a needle and thread.
• Select a dress that can be ordered with additional length.  Many are available with an additional 3” and some even with 6”.
• Have a dress made custom to fit her.

Will it fit in the future?  We’re asked that all the time.  Oh, how I wish that we could predict this!  So many think that because we specialize in children’s formal attire that we should be able to select a future size with great accuracy.  Unfortunately, nobody is gifted to do that.  If you need a dress for 6 months from now or more you may wish to order a size or two larger but be prepared – anything can happen.  She may grow 2 sizes but she may not change sizes at all during that time.  

Shopping On Line for Dresses

Can you effectively pick out a dress on the internet or in a bridal shop and order it to fit properly?  Absolutely!  But please, throw out your pre-conceived ideas about what size you think she “should” fit, be accurate and honest about measurements, and DO plan on having it altered.